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The Ugly Effect of Physical Insults
  + stars: | 2024-05-17 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Debates can get, well, ugly in Congress, but rarely do they descend to the level of physical taunts. Yet that is exactly what happened on Thursday during a meeting of the House Oversight Committee. During a discussion about whether Attorney General Merrick B. Garland should be held in contempt of Congress, Representative Marjorie Taylor Greene, a Republican from Georgia, told Representative Jasmine Crockett, a Democrat from Texas, “I think your fake eyelashes are messing up what you’re reading.”Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, a Democrat from New York whose own signature red lipstick has become something of an online lighting rod, then leaped to Ms. Crockett’s defense. “How dare you attack the physical appearance of another person,” she said. Further name-calling ensued, culminating in Ms. Crockett’s covertly returning the insult by asking the chair, James R. Comer, “If someone on this committee then starts talking about somebody’s bleach blond, bad-built butch body, that would not be engaging in personalities, correct?” (That description being a not-entirely-implicit reference to Ms.
Persons: Merrick B, Garland, Marjorie Taylor Greene, Jasmine Crockett, , Alexandria Ocasio, , Crockett’s, James R, Comer, Greene Organizations: Republican, Locations: Georgia, Texas, Cortez, New York
A Shock of Red for a Royal Portrait
  + stars: | 2024-05-15 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Royal portraits, as a rule, tend to be fairly staid, predictable affairs. Full of symbolism, sure, but generally symbolism of the traditional, establishment kind: symbols of state, of office, of pomp and lineage. Which is why the new official portrait of King Charles III by Jonathan Yeo, the first since the king’s coronation, has created such a controversy. A larger-than-life (7.5 foot-by-5.5 foot) canvas, the portrait shows the king standing in his Welsh Guards uniform, hands on the hilt of his sword, a half-smile on his face, with a butterfly hovering just over his right shoulder. His entire body is bathed in a sea of crimson, so his face appears to be floating.
Persons: King Charles III, Jonathan Yeo, , Yeo Organizations: Welsh Guards, BBC
Stormy Daniels as We Had Never Seen Her
  + stars: | 2024-05-09 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
There is a certain irony to the fact that the most consequential role Stormy Daniels, the adult entertainer at the heart of the Trump criminal trial, may ever play is taking place off screen. Her blond hair was caught up in the back with bits escaping to shield her face, and she was wearing black-frame glasses and little makeup. On Thursday, when her cross-examination resumed, she was obscured by the same dark cloak, though underneath was a plain green dress. She wore her hair down and a necklace her daughter had made. Ms. Daniels has often been discussed as the most colorful part of the case — the bringer of salacious detail, the source of the juicy tell-all.
Persons: Daniels, Trump, chunky Organizations: Court Locations: Lower Manhattan, cardigan
When the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute announced its 2024 spring blockbuster show would be called “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion,” a lot of head-scratching ensued. Its curators seek to “reawaken” these items with a dash of technology and a soupçon of sensory overload: touch, smell and sound. Imagine the ghostly rustling of silk taffeta, the clinking of giant paillettes, brought back to life by scientists and engineers. It’s not your usual fashion exhibit. Vanessa Friedman, chief fashion critic, and Jason Farago, critic at large, debated the result.
Persons: frocks, It’s, Vanessa Friedman, Jason Farago Organizations: Metropolitan Museum, Art’s Costume Institute
Is the Met Gala Protest-Proof?
  + stars: | 2024-05-07 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
If ever a Met Gala seemed primed to clash with its political moment, it was the 2024 Met. On the one hand, there was the event: the most opulent, extravagant, expensive party of the year, where a single ticket cost a whopping $75,000 — 50 percent more than last year’s ticket and more than $15,000 more than the average American salary. On the other hand, there was a city roiled by student protests over the war in Gaza and rived by the country’s first criminal trial of a former president, and a sponsor (Condé Nast) in a fight with its employees over their union. Even the evening’s dress code seemed to acknowledge the dichotomy: “The Garden of Time,” the title of a J.G. Ballard short story about an aristocratic couple isolated in their mansion as an unruly mob draws ever closer, brandishing sticks and tools and a threat to their way of life.
Persons: Condé Nast, Ballard, , ” Andrew Bolton Organizations: Institute Locations: Gaza
How do celebrities get their hands on museum-quality gowns?
  + stars: | 2024-05-07 | by ( Leah Dolan | ) edition.cnn.com   time to read: +12 min
But today, as more and more celebrities choose to wear vintage, the all-important stretch of red carpet has started to look more like a museum hallway. Kendall Jenner's vintage dress for the 2024 Met Gala. Mugler — the luxury French fashion house responsible for dressing Zendaya in a 30 kilogram full metal robot suit from 1995. Although interest in vintage fashion is rising amongst celebrity clients, not everyone is qualified to physically handle these pieces. John Shearer/WireImage/Getty ImagesFashion’s rat raceBut if these one-of-a-kind pieces are so fragile, and the method of their conservation so exact, how do celebrities even get their hands on them?
Persons: CNN —, Miley Cyrus, Laverne Cox, Olivia Rodrigo, Bob Mackie, , Vanessa Friedman, Cardi, Margot Robbie, Jennifer Lawrence, Mugler, Givenchy —, That’s, Kim Kardashian, Marilyn Monroe’s, Emily Ratajkowski, Versace, Zendaya, Givenchy, Kendall Jenner, Kendall Jenner's, Jamie McCarthy, Renée Zellweger, Jean Dessès, Julia Roberts, “ Erin Brockovich, Erin Walsh, Anne Hathaway, Selena Gomez, Sarah Jessica Parker, WWD, Wiktor, ” Adrian Corsin, Law Roach, Jean, Jacques Urcun, Marion Bourdée, Adrian, Julie Ann Clauss, Tom Ford, Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera, , John Shearer, Kylie, ” Jenner, Thierry Mugler, Couturissime, ” Bourdée, Kylie Jenner, Ripley’s, ” Mugler, won’t, Walsh, ” Erin Walsh, Valentino, Karwai Tang, We’re, Kendall, ” Corsin, hasn’t Organizations: CNN, New York Times, Givenchy, London, Publishing, Brooklyn, International Council of Museums, , New York, Hollywood, SAG, Vogue Locations: Zendaya, London, France, LA, Mugler, New York, , , New
The Met Gala, in Photos
  + stars: | 2024-05-07 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +2 min
Every Gala has a dress code, which is tethered to the exhibition. All of which makes it easy to forget this is actually an important fund-raiser for one of New York’s cultural pillars: the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. It was once a free-standing museum, but when it merged with the Met in 1946, part of the deal was that the Costume Institute would have to pay for itself. Hence the gala, which raises all the funds for the institute’s operating budget. The Costume Institute itself has historically been housed in the museum’s basement — a clear statement about its status at the museum.
Persons: you’ve, , Ballard, Katy Perry, Alexandria Ocasio, Cortez, ” scrawled, Kandinsky Organizations: Metropolitan Museum, Art’s Costume, Met, Costume Locations: East Coast, Alexandria
What did the stars wear to the Met Gala on Monday night? The singer Rita Ora attended the event wearing multicolored strings of beads by Marni that cascaded down a sheer bodysuit. A trompe l’oeil gown by Diesel superimposed an image of a naked torso atop Kylie Minogue’s real one. Nakedness on the red carpet may still scandalize, but it is time tested: Consider Rose McGowan’s backless mesh dress at the Video Music Awards in 1998, which she has described as a statement about reclaiming her body. On the Met Gala carpet this year, the approach seemed to catch on more than usual, even after barely-there clothing took over the spring 2023 runways in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
Persons: Rita Ora, Doja, Kylie Minogue’s, Vanessa Friedman, Adam, Eve Organizations: Diesel Locations: New York, London, Milan, Paris
“The designers must fight to the death to dress you,” Kelly Ripa told Zendaya, the 27-year-old actress, as they discussed her preparation for this year’s Met Gala on a recent episode of “Live With Kelly and Mark.”Zendaya gave a knowing smile. So it is of intense interest to red-carpet watchers that Zendaya will return to the Met Gala on Monday for the first time in five years, this time as a co-chair. “We call each other our fashion soul mates,” he told Vanessa Friedman in a recent interview. Zendaya’s willingness to take fashion risks has been on display at her past five Met Gala appearances, which have involved chain mail, parrots and a color-changing Cinderella dress with a pumpkin carriage purse. But ascending the steps has not exactly gotten easier with practice, she told Ms. Ripa: “It’s still terrifying.”
Persons: ” Kelly Ripa, Zendaya, Kelly, Mark, ” Zendaya, , Jessica Testa, Law Roach, Vanessa Friedman, Ripa, Organizations: The New York Times
Last March, Law Roach seemed to be at the peak of his career as a celebrity stylist. He had won the first stylist of the year award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and was working with Zendaya, Celine Dion, Anya Taylor-Joy and Anne Hathaway, among others. Rumors that he had thrown a tantrum because Louis Vuitton wouldn’t seat him next to Zendaya in the front row. On May 6, Mr. Roach is dressing Zendaya, a host of the Met Gala, which he is also attending. And he is plotting a certification course for would-be stylists, which will, essentially, mass-market and formalize his approach.
Persons: Law Roach, Zendaya, Celine Dion, Anya Taylor, Joy, Anne Hathaway, , Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Louis Vuitton, , Roach, Julia Fox Organizations: of Fashion Designers of America
Once a popular target of jokes about bad fashion (and not just from the evening’s featured comedian host), the White House Correspondents’ Association Dinner has morphed in recent years into a less campy, more staid prelude to the Met Gala, which takes place days later. It’s only fitting, really, given the subtext of journalists being jailed around the world. Still, the bar for serious style has been raised by the mix of media, political and Hollywood figures that populate the guest list. Not that it’s just the celebs au fait with stylists and designer brands who are working the entrances. And whether Lara Trump, sitting with Politico, would represent in MAGA glory.
Persons: Biden, Brandon, John Fetterman, Gisele, Lara Trump Organizations: White, Politico Locations: MAGA
‘Challengers’: Normcore Clothes on Sweaty Bodies
  + stars: | 2024-04-25 | by ( The Styles Desk | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
This week “Challengers,” Luca Guadagnino’s film about love, lust and tennis, finally hit theaters after being delayed by the actor’s strike last fall. Starring Zendaya, Josh O’Connor and Mike Faist as racket prodigies reunited by fate and tournaments, with costumes by Jonathan Anderson (designer of Loewe, his own JW Anderson line and many Uniqlo collabs), it is a romp through competitions and clothes. Vanessa Friedman Aesthetics — clothes, colors, design — have always been important in Luca Guadagnino’s movies, but “Challengers” is the first time he has collaborated with a single fashion designer: Jonathan Anderson. Jessica Testa Well, it’s not often you see a major fashion designer step into a film costume designer role. VF I loved the whole pop-art aesthetic of the movie, but I can’t say any of the clothes screamed “JWA” to me.
Persons: ” Luca Guadagnino’s, Zendaya, Josh O’Connor, Mike Faist, prodigies, Jonathan Anderson, Loewe, Anderson, Vanessa Friedman, Luca Guadagnino’s, , Jessica Testa, Guy Trebay JWA, Luca, Givenchy, Blake Edwards
The Meta-morphosis of Mark Zuckerberg
  + stars: | 2024-04-24 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: 1 min
In the run-up to Meta’s first-quarter earnings report this week, a video image of Mark Zuckerberg suddenly started going viral. Not because of the artificial intelligence assistant he was touting or because of the expected ad revenue growth, but because of the silver chain he was wearing around his neck. “Mark Zuckerberg made an announcement about something Meta is doing with A.I., but I could not listen to or retain a second of it because when I look at the Reel of him talking, all I see is necklace,” Amy Odell wrote in her Substack, Back Row.
Persons: Mark Zuckerberg, “ Mark Zuckerberg, Meta, Amy Odell
Their tunnel walks have been painstakingly documented; their fits have dominated the draft day conversations for the N.B.A. ; their love of Vuitton and Hermès has been parlayed into brands of their own. draft, following the most-watched women’s college basketball game in history and the most-watched basketball game at any level since 2019, that all changed. Caitlin Clark, Angel Reese and Cameron Brink, among others, saw that style marker and raised it one. Stylists and brands are waking up and reaching out.
Persons: Vuitton, Hermès, Caitlin Clark, Angel Reese, Cameron Brink, , Rickea Jackson Organizations: Los Angeles Sparks
Roberto Cavalli, a Life Out Loud
  + stars: | 2024-04-12 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | Jacob Bernstein | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
His animal prints did not always originate from nature but from his own imagination, chimeras of exotic skins that telegraphed excess, sex and aspiration. If Gianni Versace was the id of Italian fashion, Mr. Cavalli made it roar, hitting mass saturation in the late nineties as an antidote to the minimalism of Jil Sander and Helmut Lang. He stepped into the vacuum created by the murder of Mr. Versace in 1997, was further buoyed by the frothy stock market, and soon, Paris Hilton was wearing him. So was Candace Bushnell, creator of “Sex and the City.” Victoria Beckham was a fan during her Posh Spice era. Little wonder he was the main sponsor of the 2004 show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute: “Wild: Fashion Untamed” — or that Ben Stiller wore Mr. Cavalli’s designs for “Zoolander,” Mr. Stiller’s fashion satire.
Persons: Roberto Cavalli, Tropez, Gianni Versace, Cavalli, Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, Versace, Paris Hilton, Candace Bushnell, Victoria Beckham, Ben Stiller, , Mr Organizations: City, Metropolitan Museum, Art’s Costume Locations: Italian, Paris
There were silk and glass butterflies. There was an entree inspired by a California roll and a performance by Paul Simon. On Wednesday evening, as the Bidens hosted Prime Minister Fumio Kishida of Japan and his wife, Yuko Kishida, at the fifth state dinner of the Biden administration, Dr. Jill Biden, wearing an evening dress from Oscar de la Renta, stood with her husband to greet their guests of honor at the North Portico. Designed by Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim, the dress flowed in a watery fade from sapphire blue to light silver and was covered in hand-embroidered floral geometric beading. She was connecting to a longstanding relationship: Oscar de la Renta has dressed almost every first lady since Jackie Kennedy; Dr. Biden first wore the label for her inaugural state dinner in 2022.
Persons: Paul Simon, Fumio Kishida, Yuko Kishida, Biden, Jill Biden, Oscar de la, Fernando Garcia, Laura Kim, Naomi Biden, Hillary, Jackie Kennedy, Dr Locations: California, Japan, Portico, la, American
The smog of a Washington Post exposé may have been hanging over Kim Mulkey’s head during the L.S.U. game on Saturday afternoon, but the highest paid coach in women’s collegiate basketball wasn’t going to hide. tournament, she had given a news conference threatening a lawsuit about the article, thus calling to attention to it. In part because there she was, running up and down the sidelines and screaming her head off. A gleaming pantsuit covered in a jumble of Op Art sequined squiggles, as if Big Bird had met Liberace and they’d teamed up for “Project Runway.”
Persons: Kim Mulkey’s, sequined, Big Bird, Liberace, they’d Organizations: Washington
Valentino Enters Its Alessandro Michele Era
  + stars: | 2024-03-28 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
The song has stopped in at least one game of fashion musical chairs. Valentino has a new creative director: Alessandro Michele, the former Gucci designer who left that brand in 2022. Mr. Michele, who was known for having transformed Gucci into a $10 billion powerhouse by making it a baroque treasure chest of inclusivity and magpie references, replaces Pierpaolo Piccioli, who parted ways with Valentino last week. The appointment, which was first reported by Vogue Business, brings Mr. Michele, 51, back to the heart of the fashion world. “It is a great honor for me to be welcomed in the Maison Valentino,” Mr. Michele wrote in the caption of an Instagram post shared on Thursday.
Persons: Valentino, Alessandro Michele, Gucci, Michele, Piccioli, Jared Leto, Harry Styles, Dakota Johnson, Maison Valentino, ” Mr, , Organizations: Vogue Business
Long before he was accused of sexual misconduct in a series of lawsuits, and long before federal agents in military gear raided his homes in Miami and Los Angeles, Sean Combs was unforgivable. That was the name he had selected for his first fragrance, which he sold through a partnership with Estée Lauder. It was promoted as a scent that “exudes the energy, sexiness and elegance of Sean Combs,” and he was supposed to give it a publicity boost in April 2006 by ringing the opening bell of the New York Stock Exchange alongside William Lauder, the Estée Lauder chief executive, and Terry Lundgren, the head of Federated Department Stores. But Mr. Combs didn’t arrive in time for the opening of the market, saying he had been stuck in traffic. So his fellow business titans did the honors without him.
Persons: Long, Sean Combs, Estée Lauder, , William Lauder, Lauder, Terry Lundgren, Combs didn’t Organizations: New York Stock Exchange, Federated Department Stores, titans Locations: Miami, Los Angeles
Dries Van Noten Announces Retirement
  + stars: | 2024-03-19 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | Jessica Testa | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
In a shock to the fashion world, Dries Van Noten announced that he was stepping down as creative director of the brand that bears his name. His fall 2024 men’s show, scheduled to take place in Paris in June, will be his last. “My dream was to have a voice in fashion,” Mr. Van Noten, 65, wrote in a letter sent to editors. Now, I want to shift my focus to all the things I never had time for.”Mr. Van Noten was an original member of the Antwerp Six, the group of Belgian designers who changed fashion when they arrived in Paris in the early 1980s. His last women’s show, held in late February in Paris, was an emotional, generous paean to style over fashion and the creativity of dressing oneself.
Persons: Van Noten, , Mr, ” Mr, Van Noten’s Organizations: Antwerp Locations: Paris, Belgian
Kristen Stewart Uses Naked Dressing to Make a Point
  + stars: | 2024-03-18 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Even in the context of the current pantsless trend prevalent on the runway and in some celebrity circles, as well as the vogue for thematic dressing at movie openings, Kristen Stewart’s looks during her press tour for “Love Lies Bleeding” have stood out. Rarely has an actress been so unapologetically, gloriously undressed. That’s a lot of subtext under very little — clothing, that is. Margot Robbie had fun dressing à la Barbie during her “Barbie” press tour; Zendaya captured eyeballs and social media during her “Dune: Part Two” camera calls dressed in sci-fi-themed Mugler, Givenchy and Alaïa; and the cast of “Godzilla Minus One” walked the Oscar red carpet in matching lizard-heel footwear. But with her “Love Lies Bleeding” appearances, Ms. Stewart took the concept of character cosplay to a new, more pointed level.
Persons: Kristen Stewart’s, gloriously undressed, Stewart, Tara Swennen, adroitly, Margot Robbie, Barbie, Zendaya, Locations: Givenchy
Phoebe Philo Breaks Her Silence
  + stars: | 2024-03-17 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
The last time Phoebe Philo, who has been called “the Chanel of her generation,” gave a formal interview was a decade ago. The designer, whose work offered women respite from the limits of the male gaze, has never been all that interested in explaining herself. “I say most of what I feel, and most of what is worth me saying, through what I make,” she offered recently. Under the bomber she wore gray pinstripe trousers and a matching oversize shirt. When Ms. Philo speaks, she does so in elliptical phrases, using questions as an opening to more questions.
Persons: Phoebe Philo, Chanel, , , Philo Organizations: Bond Locations: Ladbroke Grove, London, oversharing
Do designers really expect us to wear those outlandish looks they show on the runway? I look at the images and can’t imagine anyone walking down a street in most of those clothes, no matter where they lived. — Mary, Auckland, New ZealandThis is one of those questions I have been asked pretty much every season since I started covering the runway shows. Another one is about why models never smile, which I answered last season, and I get it, I really do. (As does Mr. Owens himself, who told me backstage he had figured out a way to produce and sell the ropy looks.)
Persons: — Mary, catwalks, Who, Max Mara, Van, Rick Owens, Owens Locations: Auckland , New Zealand
Clothes That Make You Feel Smart
  + stars: | 2024-03-04 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
Before the Balenciaga show, Demna, the mononymic creative director of the brand, went shopping. Specifically, he bought 800 different objects on eBay, which he haunts for the porcelain figurines, lace napkins and antique fabrics he collects. But he didn’t buy the 800 pieces for himself: He bought one for each guest at his show. The point was to consider the hours and attention required to handpick that many different objects for that many people, and how it was an investment of a different kind: Which was the greater luxury? To clothes that don’t demand too much.
Organizations: eBay, Vogue
The Verdict on the New Alexander McQueen
  + stars: | 2024-03-03 | by ( Vanessa Friedman | ) www.nytimes.com   time to read: +1 min
I was thinking about that a lot over the weekend, in part because of the designers here who, like Ms. Apfel, have built empires (or at least small fiefs) on a willingness to go their own way — Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto. Designers with a deep understanding of the rules and history of fashion and an equally powerful ability to rewrite both, and to imagine a different world. One whose uniforms can look bizarre and outrageous, but which create a sense of thrilling possibility: clothes like permission slips to think out of the box. And also because in Seán McGirr’s debut at Alexander McQueen, a house that once did all of the above, it got so very garbled. A McQueen MisstepMr. McGirr had the complicated job of taking over from Sarah Burton, the longtime deputy to Mr. McQueen, who had stabilized the brand after the designer’s suicide in 2010 and made it her own, adding a touch of grace to the angry romance and soaring imagination that traversed heaven and earth and that, combined with great technical proficiency, defined the McQueen name.
Persons: Iris Apfel, Apfel, Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto, Alexander McQueen, McQueen, Mr, McGirr, Sarah Burton Organizations: Paris, Designers
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